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Fight for Your Right: “Beef” reviewed

The new series Beef starts out with an (off-highway) instance of road rage, but turns out to be so much more. Creator Lee Sung Jin’s ten-episode series is a actually a top-down cross-section of Los Angeles denizens. When the downtrodden, shortcutting general contractor Danny (Steven Yeun) has a scary roadway encounter with uptight boutique owner Amy (Ali Wong), a class conflict emerges. Amy, charging around in her fancy white SUV, is an emblem of enviable Instagram lifestyle. She lives in a stylish Calabasas home with her handsome husband, George (Joseph Lee), and their adorable young daughter, June (Remy Holt). Danny, meanwhile, is stuck in a dumpy apartment with his slacker brother, Paul (Young Mazino), as both struggle to make ends meet and dream of the glamorous life so luxuriated in by people like Amy. Eventually, their paths entwine in ways obvious and surprising, with stories that run both parallel and perpendicular to each other. Epic in scope, Beef changes course while always keeping its eyes on the road.